Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

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The second week in the series on seasonings from around the world focuses on the oyster sauce that is used heavily in Chinese cuisine.

While it goes well with meat, vegetables and tofu, the sauce made from oysters is a good fit for seafood as well.

This time, the sauce is used to simmer the in-season mackerel. By adding the concentrated form of the oyster’s umami to the familiar combination of soy sauce, sake and sugar, we get a flavor that is rich yet mild.

After the mackerel is pan-fried aromatically, it is simmered for under 10 minutes. The pair of herb vegetables hides the fishy smell, and the thick simmering liquid brings out the best of the fatty fish.

Since the seasonings may dominate the dish, “satoimo” yam is added to soften the effect. This is an innovative mackerel dish that is different from those that simmer the fish with miso or grill with salt.

The oyster sauce can be used without heating and the Chinese cabbage dish introduced as an arranged version is an example.

If you learn to master it in simmered fare or dishes where ingredients are dressed with sauces, you can add the oyster sauce to your standard lineup of seasonings known as “sa shi su se so” in Japanese wordplay (“sato” is sugar, “shio” is salt, “su” is vinegar, “seuyu” or “shoyu” is soy sauce and miso).

DASH OF OYSTER SAUCE PUT TO GOOD USE

Perhaps people are cooking more during the coronavirus pandemic. Fewer chances to dine out seem to have prompted people to buy seasonings that are new to them.

According to a spokesperson for Ajinomoto, a major food corporation, the purchase ratio of oyster sauce rose about 2 percentage points from the pre-pandemic period.

Its usage is also changing and Kumiko Nagata, who works at the company’s seasoning business division, says that oyster is not only regarded as a seasoning for full-fledged Chinese cuisine as previously but “is also being used as an extra seasoning to use up food ingredients at home.”

Sales of Gochujang red chili paste and doubanjiang are also said to be increasing. Nagata believes it could be due to the popularity of hit Korean TV dramas broadcast in Japan. 

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Katsuhiko Yoshida in the cooking aspect and Midori Kasai in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serve two)

170 grams mackerel fillet, 2 “satoimo” yam, 1/3 long onion (“naganegi” variety), a piece (half the size of thumb) of ginger, sake, bit of salt and pepper, bit of katakuriko starch, 1 Tbsp oil, 1 Tbsp sugar, 1 Tbsp soy sauce, 2 Tbsp oyster sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil

About 370 kcal and 3.4 grams salt per portion

1. Cut mackerel fillet in four equal parts, sprinkle with 1 tsp sake, bit of salt and pepper. Dust both sides with katakuriko starch.

2. Peel satoimo and slice into 3-mm-thick rounds. Finely slice long onion at an angle. Peel ginger and slice finely.

3. Pour oil in frying pan and place on medium heat. Add mackerel skin-side down. When the side colors, turn and cook other side (PHOTO A).

4. When both sides are cooked, add 250 ml water, 2 Tbsp sake, sugar, soy sauce, oyster sauce and turn up to high heat. When it comes to a boil, lower to medium heat, add satoimo, long onion, ginger and simmer (PHOTO B). When cooking liquid is reduced to about a half and the vegetables are cooked after 5 to 8 minutes, pour sesame oil in circular motion (PHOTO C). Dish will take on a different air if fish is switched to amberjack (“buri”) or cod (“tara”) and vegetables changed to potatoes or sweet potatoes.

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Katsuhiko Yoshida is the owner-chef of Jeeten, a restaurant in Tokyo’s Yoyogi Uehara offering Chinese home cooking.

Midori Kasai is a professor at Ochanomizu University and chairwoman of the Japan Society of Cookery Science.

ARRANGED VERSION

Chinese cabbage dressed in oyster sauce

This is a convenient dish to use up the Chinese cabbage leftover from hotpots, for example. The flavor will become spot on by squeezing out the water at first. Cut 100 grams Chinese cabbage into fine strips. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt, leave for 10 minutes. Tightly squeeze out water, dress with 1 Tbsp each of oyster sauce and sesame oil. It may be enjoyed right away or can be kept in the fridge for 2 to 3 days.

COOKERY SCIENCE

Fish sauce is made by fermenting seafood pickled in salt. Fish is broken down through self-digestion and the enzyme action of microorganisms and turned into liquid seasoning containing umami components.

Although the oyster sauce is originally one such example, commercial products are made by boiling down the simmering liquid of oysters and adding seasonings. It offers unique flavors and richness and is sometimes used as a secret flavor to dishes.

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From The Asahi Shimbun’s Gohan Lab column