By LISA VOGT/ Special to Asahi Weekly
August 31, 2021 at 07:00 JST
I checked the internet for when the sun would rise and left my hotel room dressed in white a half-hour before Amaterasu-sama (sun goddess) would appear from the ocean, if there were no obstructing clouds.
It was a very special occasion--I was going to the legendary Misogi-ike (pond) in Miyazaki Prefecture!
Those familiar with Japanese mythology will recognize the place as being a powerful spot connected to the country’s creation. In the “Kojiki”--the oldest historical record of ancient Japan, compiled by court scholar Oh no Yasumaro in the eighth century--is the legend of Izanagi no Mikoto and Izanami no Mikoto.
They were the sibling deities who are said to have formed Japan.
A quick refresher: Izanami died giving birth to the fire god, Homusubi, and went to the land of darkness. An anguished Izanagi went to the Yomi no Kuni to try to get her back, but he couldn’t because she had eaten food that was served down there.
Upon his return from the underworld, he needed to purify himself from visiting that yucky place and where did he do that? Right here at Misogi pond. He shed tears during the purification process, and from the left eye came the sun goddess Amaterasu and from the right, the moon god Tsukuyomi.
I’m not sure how it works, but from his watery nose came the storm god Susanoo.
After a short stroll from the golf course resort hotel, I reached a nondescript oval pond with water lilies. I was the only one there. In the quiet stillness, I circled the pond, which was entirely surrounded by trees. I could see that in the direction of the sea, the sun had risen, but being enveloped by a forest, it was not visible.
It wasn’t at all what I expected, yet it was perfect. No torii gate, no plaque to mark the exact spot Izanagi did his ablutions and no booth to buy Misogi pond amulets and talismans.
Absolutely nothing but a peaceful pond with one narrow pole about a meter high sticking out of the ground. Hanging from it was one white zigzagging paper streamer, called a "gohei," used to cleanse, bless or exorcize.
It was my image of true Shinto, the way of the kami--the divine spirit in everything. Just the pond, simple and in its purest form, with no commercialization and advertising, brings those who visit back to the essence of it all. I bowed, said a short "norito" prayer, and left feeling purified.
* * *
This article by Lisa Vogt, a Washington-born and Tokyo-based photographer, originally appeared in the Aug. 1 issue of Asahi Weekly. It is part of the series "Lisa’s Wanderings Around Japan," which depicts various places across the country through the perspective of the author, a professor at Meiji University.
Here is a collection of first-hand accounts by “hibakusha” atomic bomb survivors.
A peek through the music industry’s curtain at the producers who harnessed social media to help their idols go global.
Cooking experts, chefs and others involved in the field of food introduce their special recipes intertwined with their paths in life.
A series based on diplomatic documents declassified by Japan’s Foreign Ministry
A series about Japanese-Americans and their memories of World War II