THE ASAHI SHIMBUN
November 25, 2024 at 07:00 JST
ITO, Shizuoka Prefecture--Though kitschy and chaotic, a museum in the theme park at an onsen resort here offers a one-of-a-kind experience that can’t be found anywhere else.
From JR Ito Station, it is a 15-minute drive in a southeasterly direction on National Road No. 135. The venue bustles with spa bathers, while those purely seeking entertainment head straight to the museum called Maboroshi Hakurankai (Phantom expo).
The park’s name is painted in red on a signboard set up along the street, accompanied by an illustration of a boy in his school uniform sticking out his tongue.
The amusement facility is run by Yoshitsugu Uno, who goes by the name “Sailor-chan” on social media because he dons a sailor-style dress like the one primarily for high schoolers.
The establishment sits on the 13,000-square-meter site that used to be a tropical botanical garden.
A glass-walled building with tropical trees that stands more than 10 meters tall reminds visitors of the facility’s history as they catch up with other drivers arriving at the museum’s parking lot.
To reach the park, one should enter the former greenhouse first.
The first thing visitors see is an enormous bust of Prince Shotoku. The towering statue of the semi-legendary figure from 1,400 years ago is so immense it feels as though it will break through the glass ceiling.
A trove of dolls resembling ancient Egyptian burial objects are on display nearby. They look abandoned rather than full-fledged exhibits. Many of the posters at the park are faded. Some are even partially torn.
“It would not be natural for showpieces to be neatly arranged,” said Uno, sharing his philosophy. “Allowing them to deteriorate is far more natural.”
Descriptions are absent for almost all items on display. This is because Uno wants visitors to “enjoy them freely from their own perspective.”
The unique policy of the director is reflected in every corner of the museum, which is characterized by nostalgic everyday items and toys that evoke the atmosphere of the Showa Era (1926-1989), from a sign for a strip club to a group of mannequins donated by a now-closed exhibition facility themed on sex culture.
“We amass all kinds of things generated in the lives of ordinary folk, except perishables and dangerous objects,” Uno said.
He said the number of items on display at the museum has steadily risen since its opening in 2011.
Visitors to Maboroshi Hakurankai are often overwhelmed by the sheer number of diverse items in front of them. Sightseers can tour the venue while listening to Sailor-chan’s casual explanations of the exhibits.
A pair of visitors were taking a photo with Sailor-chan in front of a toy shop. The massive face of Prince Shotoku, visible among trees in the background, created an image that in a sense was a scene from another world.
Given the chaotic interior of the museum, the photo was probably the most simple composition.
According to Uno, the museum receives around 40,000 visitors annually, including many repeaters.
Asked about the appeal of the place, a 30-year-old company employee from Tokyo labeled the museum “erotic, grotesque and chaotic.”
“It is so diverse,” the man said. “It is much more overwhelming than when I last came two years ago.”
Those wanting to see Sailor-chan should visit Maboroshi Hakurankai on weekends.
Sailor-chan welcomed visitors in October wearing a light blue wig and a dark red sailor-like uniform. He waved a flag to see them off on their way home.
Such is the excitement to be had that many visitors soon start plotting their return to Maboroshi Hakurankai almost as soon as they leave.
Located midway on the east coast of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture, Ito faces the Sagaminada Sea and has a population of 65,000. It is easily accessible from the Tokyo metropolitan area.
Famed across the Kanto region for its onsen resorts, Ito is also renowned for its abundant natural beauty, allowing visitors to enjoy local specialties from the land and the sea.
(This article was written by Masafumi Ueda and Kazushige Kobayashi.)
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