Photo/Illutration Akusekijima island seen from a Japan Coast Guard aircraft on July 9 (Pool)

The late Toshimi Shimono (1929-2022), a renowned Japanese folklorist and leading authority on the folk traditions of southern Japan, once described the Tokara island chain in Kagoshima Prefecture as “a junction of north-south cultural exchange in Japan.”

Starting in the mid-1960s, Shimono made frequent visits to this remote chain of 12 small islands, traveling from village to village to gather stories from local elders.

He was deeply drawn to the region’s distinctive cultural landscape, where southern influences from Amami and Okinawa merged with northern traditions from Kagoshima and the Japanese mainland.

His compilation 60 years ago, “Tokara Retto Minzokushi” (Ethnography of the Tokara islands), remains a valuable resource, offering a detailed account of the history and customs of Akusekijima, one of the islands in the archipelago.

It is striking to discover that even in this remote region, legends persist about the “ochiudo”—the surviving members of the defeated Heike (Taira) clan who fled into secluded mountain villages and isolated islands after their crushing defeat by the rival Genji (Minamoto) clan in the late 12th century.

Equally fascinating is the practice of celebrating the new year according to both the lunar and solar calendars.

The records also include a vivid description of the “Boze,” masked deities that appear during a “Raihoshin” (visiting deity) ritual in Akusekijima. The Boze ceremony is one of 10 Raihoshin-related events in Japan recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Among the collected materials, I was especially drawn to the spirited lyrics of a folk song performed during festive occasions.

One verse of the song goes: “If we don’t catch bonito, Akusekijima cannot sustain itself/ Please let us catch them, Ebesu-sama.”

Ebesu, also called Ebisu, who is one of the Seven Gods of Fortune in Japanese tradition, is revered as the patron deity of fishermen, luck and prosperity.

Another lively line declares: “Akusekijima—though its name means ‘bad stone island’—piles up money at the tsubata on the shore.”

In this context, “tsubata” refers to the water’s edge, while “money” serves as a poetic metaphor for bonito, the lifeblood of the island’s fishing economy.

According to Shimono’s research, Akusekijima had a population of 170 in 1964.

Over the past six decades, that number has been cut in half. And following the series of earthquakes that began on June 21, only about 20 residents remain on the island, with others having evacuated, including some from neighboring Kodakarajima.

As of 5 p.m. on July 12, more than 1,900 perceptible tremors had been recorded.

The initial hope that residents could return in “about a week” has proven overly optimistic, and the outlook remains uncertain.

We can only hope the earth quiets soon but each fresh news alert announcing another quake, such as one registering a seismic intensity of 4 on Japan’s 7-point scale, brings renewed anxiety.

The folk song closes with the poignant line: “When we see the ship leave the port, we do so with tears.”

May those who left their island in sorrow be able to return home as soon as possible. All we can do now is pray.

—The Asahi Shimbun, July 13

* * *

Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.

Related News