Photo/Illutration A cup of matcha tea is served with a slice of "yokan" gelled sweet bean paste at a tea room of Toraya Ichijo Store in Kyoto's Kamigyo Ward in January 2020. (Asahi Shimbun file photo)

What is the subtle charm in the taste of tea that makes it irresistible?

Japanese art philosopher Tenshin Okakura (1863-1913) once observed that tea “has not the arrogance of wine, the self-consciousness of coffee, nor the simpering innocence of cocoa.”

In 1906, he published “The Book of Tea” in New York, a passionate appeal to Western readers about the aesthetics and spiritual values of Asia—particularly those of Japan.

Okakura wrote the book in English, aiming to convey the delicate and refined flavors and aromas of tea.

His English-language descriptions of various tea preparations are particularly intriguing: “the Cake-tea which was boiled” refers to “dancha,” a solid, compressed form of tea; “the Leaf-tea which was steeped” describes the method of brewing loose or whole tea leaves in hot water; and “the Powdered-tea which was whipped” refers, of course, to matcha.

Some 120 years later, the finely ground powdered green tea that originated in Japan has gained global popularity under the name “matcha.” Matcha lattes, matcha chocolates and matcha ice cream have become familiar treats around the world.

On social media, international influencers showcase vivid green matcha smoothies, promoting them as a trendy and healthful “superfood.”

According to Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, green tea exports reached a record 36.4 billion yen ($250.2 million) last year, with matcha likely serving as the primary engine of that growth.

It has become a popular souvenir among inbound tourists and now holds a distinct and elevated status among the many varieties of tea.

Sixteen years ago, before matcha had gained widespread recognition abroad, it made a memorable appearance on the stage of diplomacy. During his 2009 visit to Japan, U.S. President Barack Obama fondly recalled his childhood visit to Kamakura, where his mother had taken him to see the great bronze Amida Buddha.

Speaking at Suntory Hall, Obama quipped, “As a child, I was more focused on the matcha ice cream,” drawing warm laughter from the audience. That same dessert was served at the state dinner in his honor, where it was graciously received and appreciated.

May 1 marked “Hachijuhachi-ya” (the 88th night), which refers to the 88th day after the start of spring in the traditional Japanese calendar. Tea harvested around this time—known as "shincha," or the season’s first flush—is prized for its exceptional freshness and vibrant flavor.

Were Okakura alive today, would he be astonished to see matcha transformed into a global phenomenon? Though its evolution may have taken an unexpected path, perhaps he would find satisfaction in seeing it become a bridge between East and West.

—The Asahi Shimbun, May 2

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Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.

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