Photo/Illutration A Kikugawa "chakoshi" tea promoter and other participants carefully pick tea leaves in Kikugawa, Shizuoka Prefecture, on April 4. (Tomoko Saito)

Kagoshima finally dethroning the nation's top tea-growing prefecture sent shock waves through local producers. 

Until now, Shizuoka Prefecture had placed first since record-keeping began in 1959 while Kagoshima was ranked second for many years for producing "aracha" (unrefined or raw green tea), where leaves have only been steamed and dried.

The southern prefecture's ascension marks a turning point for its farms that were buoyed by the global matcha boom and their catering to a growing demand for bottled tea to fulfill their long-held desire. 

WHERE ARE THE YOUNG FOLKS?

The first tea leaf harvest of the year took place at a dedicated greenhouse in Kikugawa, Shizuoka Prefecture, on April 4.

"While fertilizer and material prices are rising, there are no successors," said the farm’s owner, Takao Miyagi, 78, on the current state of growers. "It is difficult to continue."

Aracha can be processed not only into “sencha” (loose-leaf green tea) widely consumed in Japan, but also “tencha” tea leaves that are ground when making matcha.

According to the farm ministry, 25,800 tons of aracha were produced in Shizuoka Prefecture in 2024, down 5 percent from the previous year.

Kagoshima Prefecture produced 27,000 tons, up 3 percent.

Although Shizuoka’s first harvest yielded 10,000 tons and surpassed Kagoshima’s 8,450 tons, it was delayed by rain. The resulting decline in quality and prices caused farmers to scale back their second harvest to prevent further price drops.

In terms of broader reasons for its fall, Shizuoka’s tea-growing areas have also shrunk by 30 percent over the past 10 years or so.

About 60 percent of farmers tend to small fields spanning 1.5 hectares or less, according to officials from the prefectural government’s tea promotion division. This, and the fields’ location in mountainous areas or on plateaus, makes it difficult for growers to rely on automated machinery.

Masamori Tsuboi, managing director of JA Enshu Yumesaki, which falls under the Japan Agricultural Cooperative, believes Shizuoka lags behind Kagoshima when it comes to reinvention. 

"It is a time for change," he said. "We must change our stance on tea, producing organic tea for export, cultivating tencha and taking other measures."

STACKED ADVANTAGES

Things began changing in Kagoshima with a single request some 60 years ago.

Known as a tea harvester manufacturer today, Matsumoto Kiko Co. in Minami-Kyushu, Kagoshima Prefecture, put together its first prototype in the period between 1965 and 1975 after a farmer asked for one to alleviate the demanding work of picking leaves by hand.

These advancements in farming technology and its rise in prevalence for large-scale tea cultivation would aid Kagoshima in eventually taking Shizuoka’s crown.

"Our company has grown together with tea farmers, and it's so moving to see (the prefecture) become the top tea producer in Japan," said President Yuji Matsumoto, 51.

Unlike Shizuoka’s situation, businesses in Kagoshima grow their tea on flat, vast farms.

They also benefit from an extended harvesting period as the warm climate allows growers to cultivate many varieties; the first harvest is due in spring and is followed by three more, as well as yields in autumn and winter.

The largest factor behind Kagoshima’s success, however, is attributed to the high demand for the second and third harvests that were used to make bottled green tea.

Matcha’s global popularity as a healthy food is another reason for the increased demand. It is highly sought-after overseas while sencha consumption remains sluggish.

Kagoshima ranks first in producing tencha necessary for matcha powder.

Although it still produces more loose-leaf sencha, its tencha output is 2.7 times higher than five years ago.

However, not everyone in Kagoshima is celebrating just yet. 

The prefecture is still no match for Shizuoka when it comes to matching the production volume of that first harvest's high-priced leaves. The decline in households drinking tea has also dealt a blow.

Ryozo Sawada, 74, former president of the Kagoshima-based commercial cooperative association for tea farmers, said efforts must be made to increase the profile of its crops.

"Kagoshima tea doesn't ring a bell for consumers. They still say, 'Can you harvest tea in Kagoshima?'" he said with a wry smile. 

Even so, he is certain its recent win will help turn it into an area famed for growing tea.

"I hope farmers continue growing higher quality tea and enhance its brand power," he added.

(This article was written by Yoshiko Aoyama, Tomoko Saito and Shinichi Senzaki.)