By CHIKAKO NUMATA/ Staff Writer
December 4, 2024 at 17:41 JST
Grilled eel on rice is becoming more accessible for casual diners. (Chikako Numata)
Eel has been selected the Dish of the Year for its strides in sustainable farming, increasing accessibility and rising popularity among diners worldwide.
The accolade, announced on Dec. 3 by Gurunavi Inc., was awarded to the food deemed most reflective of 2024’s societal trends.
In recent years, catches of young eels, known as “shirasu unagi” (glass eels), have significantly declined. The government and research institutions are working to make full-cycle eel farming a practical reality.
Research advancements to preserve eel for future generations is one reason for Gurunavi’s choice.
The restaurant guide also cited eel’s growing popularity among foreign tourists along with an increase in specialized restaurants.
These restaurants have made the dish more accessible for casual dining while maintaining eel’s status as a luxury ingredient.
A researcher and specialty restaurant owner each shared their endeavors at the news conference for the announcement of the award.
“Full-cycle farming provides a sustainable way to farm eel without impacting natural resources,” said Hideki Tanaka, a specially appointed professor at Kindai University.
Last fall, Kindai University became the first in Japan to successfully achieve full-cycle farming of Japanese eel. Eggs were produced through artificial fertilization, and researchers raised the fish after they hatched.
Tanaka added that he is focused on what to feed the eels until they reach the juvenile stage.
Meanwhile, the industry is facing a shortage of skilled chefs able to expertly skewer and grill eel.
Tomoko Matsui, president of specialty restaurant Unagiya in Aichi Prefecture, is addressing this by transforming homemakers into specialized chefs. Training occurs over a short period of time through concise manuals and hands-on workshops.
“I want to help keep alive the tradition of eating eel for generations to come,” she said.
The Dish of the Year is chosen based on keywords extracted from big data, such as the browsing and activity history of Gurunavi’s registered members. The winner is finalized through member surveys.
This marks Gurunavi’s 11th year of selecting a dish.
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