Photo/Illutration The winning pickle: “Shonan daikon no Kugenuma gyosho-zuke” (Shona daikon radish pickled in Kugenuma fish sauce) (Photo courtesy of Yasutoshi Watanabe)

FUJISAWA, Kanagawa Prefecture--Barman Yasutoshi Watanabe wasn’t entirely idle during the COVID-19 pandemic: He spent a lot of time perfecting the perfect pickle.

The fruits of his labor were recognized at “Tsukemono Guranpuri 2024” (Pickle Grand Prix 2024) held in April by the Tokyo-based All Japan Tsukemono Federation of Cooperatives.

The winning pickle was Watanabe’s “Shonan daikon no Kugenuma gyosho-zuke” (Shonan daikon radish pickled in Kugenuma fish sauce). It won the grand prize in the individual category.

It is made by sun-drying the skin of local daikon radish, pickling its leaves in salt to remove the bitterness, then marinating them in sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, garlic and red chili pepper. The finishing flourish is marinating it in fish sauce made from locally caught sardines.

The soothing umami and the textures of crunchy skin and crisp leaves were judged to be particularly pleasing to the palate.

Watanabe works at a bar called Yassai Mossai near Shonandai Station in Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture, south of Tokyo. Three years ago, the 36-year-old staff member began picking apart the pickle menu.

Since the bar had to close in line with a shutdown request by prefectural authorities during the pandemic, Watanabe decided to use the time to improve his skills.

The bar was known for its menu featuring an array of local vegetables due to the policy of its owner Keiki Morita, 42. Yet the dishes offered were mainly garlic based or with a spicy sauce as in typical bar fare.

Watanabe, a native of Fukushima Prefecture, had always loved the pickles his grandmother used to serve as snacks at home. They included pickled “takuan” daikon radish, lightly pickled cucumber, eggplant and Chinese cabbage as well as the local specialty “ika ninjin” (carrot pickled with dried squid).

Recalling the salty-sweet flavor of those pickles and their pleasing aroma of fermentation, Watanabe thought they would definitely go well with the drinks served at the bar.

This led him to create original pickles and enter a contest to try his skill. His pickles won prizes two years in a row and his third try earned him the coveted best in Japan title.

In addition to the flavor, Watanabe’s pickle earned high marks for using up the skin and leaves left over from the bar’s popular dish of “deep-fried daikon” and blending “the blessings of the sea and the land.”

As a future goal, Watanabe hopes through his pickles to spread the appeal of farm and marine produce from Fujisawa to consumers around Japan.

“I meet so many committed producers,” he said. “With their advice, I will put my heart into drawing out the best of the ingredients through cooking.

Since his pickle won the grand prize, people have been calling l nonstop to place orders. But Watanabe is severely limited in the amount he can produce, so the pickle is served only at the bar for 520 yen, including tax.

“The bar may be a bit out of the way for some people, but I hope all my customers will enjoy it while having a good time chatting with us,” he says.

Hugely popular at the bar are not only alcohol drinks but also craft cola and ginger ale which Watanabe makes using vegetable stock and spices.

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