Photo/Illutration Finely sliced and pickled small turnips (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

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The second in the series to master winter daikon radish and turnip features Senmaizuke, literally “pickled thousand slices” of Kyoto, made by slicing the turnip.

Many regional varieties of turnip are grown around Japan, and they are turned into local pickles. The Shogoin turnip grown traditionally in Kyoto is a large variety whose diameter can be as large as 20 centimeters.

Senmaizuke made by layering kombu kelp and turnip slices is a seasonal delicacy. Setsuko Sugimoto, who oversaw the cooking aspect of the recipe, introduces how to recreate the pickle using the more familiar small turnips. Fine and smooth in texture, the in-season turnips allow us to readily enjoy “that flavor.”

Since the way the turnip is cut determines the flavor, a slicer comes in handy. By slicing it into thickness of 1 to 2 millimeters, you can strike a balance between the pliability and texture.

An airtight plastic bag is useful when pickling a small amount. You only need a small quantity of seasoning, and the umami of the kombu kelp will spread throughout. Leave overnight and start eating when the taste has settled. The pickle will keep in the fridge for a week.

In the arranged version, the Senmaizuke is used like Western-style pickles. The contrasting red and white of the salmon and the turnip are pleasing to the eye.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Setsuko Sugimoto in the cooking aspect and Yasujiro Morimitsu in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serve four)

350 grams small turnip (2 kokabu), 3 Tbsp vinegar (rice vinegar), 3 Tbsp sugar, 1 and 1/2 tsp salt, square dried kombu kelp 8 cm on a side, 1 pod chili pepper

About 30 kcal and 0.8 gram salt per portion

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PHOTO A: The flavor seeps in evenly when the thickness is uniform. If the turnip is bigger than the width of the slicer, cut in half vertically when slicing. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

1. Wash small turnips and pat dry. Without peeling, cut into slices with thickness of 1 to 2 mm using a slicer. To prevent cutting your hand, hold stem of leaves when slicing (PHOTO A). When cutting with kitchen knife, it is better not to slice the turnip whole. Cut in half vertically, place on cutting board and slice in semicircles. The thickness will turn out even this way. Cut kombu kelp in half.

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PHOTO B: To prevent the seasonings from spilling and to make them easier to mix, let the plastic bag stand in a bowl and open the top while working. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

2. In a resealable bag, add salt, sugar, vinegar (PHOTO B) and mix by shaking lightly. Add turnip slices and flatten bag. Place kombu kelp as if sandwiching the layered turnip. Add chili pepper. Seal bag while pushing out air (PHOTO C).

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PHOTO C: Lay the turnip slices so they overlap partially. The spiciness becomes even if the chili pepper is positioned in a corner where the seasoning liquid collects. (Photo by Masahiro Goda)

3. Place in fridge overnight to let flavor settle. For eating, drain, cut into shapes you prefer and serve on plate. The kombu kelp may be chopped and served with turnip.

Tips on making sliced and pickled small turnips (Video by Masahiro Goda)

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Setsuko Sugimoto is a Kyoto-based cooking expert who explores the culinary culture of the ancient capital.

Yasujiro Morimitsu is a professor at Ochanomizu University specializing in the functional components of food.

ARRANGED VERSION

Senmaizuke rolled with salmon

Take advantage of the pliable Senmaizuke to make a rolled snack that goes with drinks. The ingredients are 12 Senmaizuke slices and 6 smoked salmon slices. Place two slices of Senmaizuke that are partially overlapping on a slice of smoked salmon and roll from an end. Repeat to make 6 rolls.

Serve on plate so the rolled ends are visible and garnish with small leaves of turnip if available. If you like, pour on some olive oil or squeeze lemon or yuzu juice. Ham may be used instead of salmon.

COOKERY SCIENCE

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The Asahi Shimbun

The white round part of the turnip is not the root but a tuber, or lumpy stem. In the field, a large portion grows above the ground. The tuber is a passage of water from the root to the leaves. Since its cell wall is not as strong as the root growing into the ground, the turnip becomes tender to the core in a short time when heated. Therefore, turnips tend to crumble more when simmered compared with the daikon radish whose root and stem are being cooked.

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From The Asahi Shimbun’s Gohan Lab column

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