Photo/Illutration A beer hall remodeled from a sake brewery on March 18 in Tondabayashi, Osaka Prefecture (Satoshi Maeda)

TONDABAYASHI, Osaka Prefecture--A former sake brewery dating back to the Meiji Era (1868-1912) was revived as a craft beer producer, using famed groundwater from a protected zone for government-designated historic buildings.

The Banrinoharu Shuzo brewery now serves freshly brewed suds at a beer hall within the temple town of Jinaimachi and aims to revitalize the local community.

Rich groundwater, known as “golden liquid,” flows from the Kongo mountain range to Jinaimachi, which used to be home to 10 sake breweries.

The Banrinoharu brewery was the only one that continued operating after the end of the Pacific War.

The company ceased production in 1983 due in part to shrinking demand. But its wooden brewery building, furnished with “shikkui” plaster walls, remained, and local groups have used it for weekend events for around 10 years.

Mototaka Ishida, 43, the sixth-generation head of Banrinoharu Shuzo, wanted to make full use of the building.

But he had already surrendered his sake brewing license, and re-obtaining it sounded unrealistic.

Ishida thought that making beer would not spoil the atmosphere of the ex-brewery. He then met Shozo Minami, a brewmaster for a craft beer maker in Osaka Prefecture who was considering becoming independent.

Through their partnership, the brewery gained a new life.

TENDER TOUCH

Remodeling work for the beer hall was kept to a minimum to retain the plaster walls and other old-fashioned features. The spacious hall with a high ceiling can accommodate nearly 100 people.

A range of craft beer styles, such as amber ale, hazy IPA and pale ale, can be tried there.

The hall sits next to the brewing factory, so visitors may be able to view the careful production process through a glass window.

“We are making easier-to-drink products particularly for those who have never had craft beer,” said Minami, 41.
The well water used by the brewery allows the beers to finish smoothly with a mild aftertaste.

Some of the beers rely on hops from Chihaya-Akasaka village in Osaka Prefecture.

Banrinoharu Shuzo is also planning craft beer products featuring locally grown rice, lemons and other crops.

Meals served at the hall are characterized by trout farmed in Chihaya-Akasaka, alongside other local delicacies.

LOCAL DELIGHTS

Residents also have high expectations for the rebirth of Banrinoharu Shuzo. Many people showed up with flowers to celebrate its opening last November.

“Seeing those in the local community express happiness for us encourages us to go all out,” Ishida said.

He plans to release a canned beer product with a label designed by students at nearby Osaka University of Arts.

Ishida also wants to convert a room where sake brewers stay overnight into a guesthouse.

A beer garden is envisioned on the rooftop that provides a view of the Kongo mountain range.

“We would like visitors to take the time to taste the appeal of Tondabayashi and surrounding areas,” Ishida said.

The beer hall is open from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. on weekdays, but it is closed on Tuesdays. On weekends and national holidays, it is open between 11:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m.

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