Photo/Illutration Ramen shop owners celebrate the news that Yamagata has won back-to-back titles of the highest amount spent per household on eating out for ramen noodles in 2023 in Yamagata on Feb. 6. (Takahiro Ogawa)

YAMAGATA--The capital of Yamagata Prefecture has slurped its way to defending its honorable title of having the “No.1 ramen consumers in Japan.”

According to a household economy survey released by the internal affairs ministry on Feb. 6, residents of Yamagata city spent 17,593 yen ($119) per household eating out on ramen in 2023--topping the prefectural capitals and ordinance-designated cities for the second year in a row.

That morning, Yamagata City Hall was filled with local ramen owners anxiously awaiting the announcement.

When the city’s victory was announced a little after 8:30 a.m., the crowd erupted in cheers.

“I knew Yamagata would come in first!” a person shouted.

Decorative “kusudama” balls cracked open and a banner reading “Congratulations! No. 1 in Japan!” unfurled as the ramen masters praised one another.

The cities were ranked in order of highest to lowest dining out expenditures per household of two or more people.

Yamagata’s 17,953-yen figure was the highest ever recorded since tracking began in 2000.

In the first half of the year 2023, Yamagata was falling behind Niigata city, a former champion trying to regain the title, by between 300 and 600 yen.

But from July to August, Yamagata mounted a comeback.

Consumption of “hiyashi" (chilled) ramen noodles, a popular dish in summer, is believed to have contributed to the increase.

In the end, Yamagata won by a comfortable margin of more than 2,000 yen.

Niigata finished second with 15,224 yen.

The third- and fourth-place rankings were the same as the year before: Sendai with 13,074 yen and Utsunomiya with 12,035 yen.

Toyama city, famous for “Toyama burakku (black),” noodles served in a black soy sauce broth, jumped up to fifth this year from 11th the year before.

COUNCIL OF RAMEN MASTERS MOUNT COMEBACK

In 2021, Yamagata had fallen to second place. That defeat prompted ramen shop owners and city officials to establish a council two years ago.

In the 2022 tally, the city returned to the top position, but the council members did not become complacent.

The council members continued to focus on public relations efforts, designating Feb. 8 as the city’s Ramen Day and creating a website to introduce each restaurant’s ramen.

Toshihiko Suzuki, owner of the Mentatsu ramen shop who chairs the council, said, “We have received warm support from many customers over the past year, and the public and private sectors have worked hard together. I am happy to see the great results.”

Yamagata Mayor Takahiro Sato said, “I hope to continue the friendly competition with other cities in the future.”

Residents of Yamagata also celebrated the victory by eating their favorite food.

Kenchan Ramen Yamagata, a ramen noodle restaurant in the city, was filled to capacity with customers lining up right after it opened at 11 a.m.

Among them was a 63-year-old local woman.

She said, “I always eat ramen because it is delicious, not because of the rankings.”

“I am very happy if our local fondness for ramen has led to the back-to-back titles,” she said with a smile.

Shota Iwasaki, 35, an office worker in Tokyo, was also in the line. He had taken time off to sightsee in the area.

“I had heard that Yamagata is No. 1 in the ramen ranking, so I wanted to try it,” he said.

“I was surprised to hear that (the city) won again this year,” he said.

After eating, he noted that, “The seafood broth had a strong aroma and flavor. It was delicious.”

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