By YUKI KAWANO/ Staff Writer
September 28, 2023 at 08:00 JST
Editor’s note: In the Taste of Life series, cooking experts, chefs and others involved in the field of food introduce their special recipes intertwined with their paths in life.
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The interior of the Portuguese restaurant Cristiano’s located near Yoyogi Park in Tokyo is adorned with colorful artworks and tiles featuring fish, which Koji Sato has collected over the years.
“I want people to enjoy the place as a gateway to get the feel of Portugal,” says the owner-chef.
Sato encountered Portuguese cooking when he was living in Britain in his 20s. A Portuguese colleague who worked in the same restaurant would gather leftover ingredients in the fridge to cook dishes such as feijoada, a traditional Portuguese stew of beans with pork.
In Portuguese cuisine, bacalhau, dried and salted cod, is a versatile ingredient used in salads, stir-fries and deep-fried dishes. Some bacalhau dishes such as “bacalhau a Gomes de Sa” are given the name of the person who created it.
Sato says he was intrigued by the way each dish gave a glimpse to the history of people living in Portugal.
He also says, “Portuguese cooking is an extension of home cooking.”
Even at restaurants, stir-fries and simmered dishes are cooked on moderate heat as at home.
Sato opened the restaurant hoping to offer those in Japan the chance to enjoy the gentle and simple Portuguese dishes with history.
The bacalhau croquette is a finger food that is also served at cafes. It is a routine meal in Portuguese households and a popular staple dish at Cristiano’s.
In this week’s recipe, fresh cod is cooked instead of using bacalhau and nam-pla is used to adjust the flavor. Why not make a batch for a big party?
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Koji Sato: Born in Saitama Prefecture in 1974, Sato is the owner-chef of a Portuguese restaurant. He returned to Japan after training in Italy and other places and opened the Portuguese restaurant Cristiano’s in 2010. He runs six restaurants and shops.
BASIC COOKING METHOD
Main ingredients (Serves 4)
150 grams fresh cod (tara), 1/2 tsp coarse salt (arajio), 250 grams potato, 1 tsp nam-pla, 3 grams parsley, 40 grams fine breadcrumbs (if unavailable, grate regular breadcrumbs), 1 egg, 1 piece lemon, some parsley for garnish
1. Sprinkle coarse salt on both sides of cod. Cook both sides in frying pan on medium heat. Place in bowl, cool and break into small pieces.
2. Peel potato, steam and mash. Add to it (1), nam-pla, finely chopped parsley, breadcrumbs, egg and mix thoroughly and evenly by hand. Check taste and if necessary, add about 1 tsp salt to taste.
3. Form into barrel shape that is about 5-cm long or the size you prefer. Heat frying oil to 170 degrees and fry for about 3 minutes until surface is crisp. Serve with lemon and parsley.
About 230 kcal and 2.7 grams salt per portion
(Nutrient calculation by the Nutrition Clinic of Kagawa Nutrition University)
SHORT MEMOS
Sea bream, sardine and mackerel can be used instead of cod. Adding curry powder to the mixture is also a good idea.
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