Photo/Illutration Threads and fabrics made using material developed by Spiber Inc. (Provided by Spiber Inc.)

TSURUOKA, Yamagata Prefecture--A biotechnology startup based here is drawing major attention from investors for its development of spider silk for use as a synthetic fiber.

Spider silk, utilized by the protagonist in the movie “Spider-Man,” is a protein fiber said to be stronger than steel and more elastic than nylon.

Startup Spiber Inc., which is producing the fiber, raised 31.6 billion yen ($2.77 billion) last year, well beyond the scope a typical fledgling company can hope for. This year it even topped that, raking in 39.9 billion yen.

With these funds, the company is trying to bring its factories in Thailand and the United States to operation in the coming months. The company is raising funds for investment in facilities to mass-produce its material.

Though Spiber's sales have to date amounted to only 200 million yen or so, Kazuhiro Yamada, managing director and representative in Japan for investment firm The Carlyle Group, sees a bright future for the startup.

“It has a potential to sell tens of billions of yen in several years,” he said.

The Carlyle Group has invested 10 billion yen in the company.

Spiber, linked to Keio University, was established in 2007. It began producing synthetic proteins that have qualities similar to spider silk after studying the arachnid's genetic sequence.

Spiber’s protein is called Brewed Protein, which is created by fermenting micro-organisms fed with plant-based sugars, such as sugarcane.

“We can change the fabric’s feeling in the middle of production and make it moisture-absorbent, fast-drying and odor-eating,” said Kazuhide Sekiyama, an executive officer of the company.

In a tie-up with leading sportswear maker Goldwin, Spiber released a limited number of T-shirts, sweaters and outdoor jackets for sale.

But the price tag of 150,000 yen ($1,315) for outdoor jackets may scare some customers away.

Brewed Protein also still has a way to go before becoming a household name.

The tag on clothing jointly made with Goldwin lists its material as “fiber not eligible for classification.”

Sekiyama is determined to lobby the apparel industry to approve the listing of protein fiber in the tag.

SPIDER SILK SEEN AS CLEAN ALTERNATIVE TO COTTON

One factor driving investment into Spiber, despite its as-yet unproven track record, is the gathering global momentum for decarbonization, which has led to increased expectations for startups.

The global apparel industry has traditionally relied on cotton, the growing of which involves the use of a heavy amount of agricultural chemicals, and petroleum-based fibers.

In 2018, the world’s apparel industry emitted 2.1 billion tons of carbon dioxide, accounting for 4 percent of total emissions, according to a report by U.S. consultancy McKinsey & Co.

Efforts have spread in the apparel industry to help reduce emissions.

A global coalition of companies in the fashion and textile industry committed to stopping global warming that began in 2019 has been joined by major brands including Gucci and Nike.

Many investors view plant-derived next-generation materials as being in line with the growing tide toward de-carbonization.

But Spiber isn't the only player developing a protein fiber and it is difficult to predict who will emerge as the front-runner in the race to roll out synthetic new materials.

U.S. startup Bolt Threads is manufacturing an artificial leather made from mycelium, the roots of a mushroom.

Adidas announced in April that the German sportswear company will use Bolt Threads’ new leather for its popular sneaker brand Stan Smith.

Asics Corp., based in Kobe, began marketing a plant-derived yoga wear collection in Europe in spring last year, teaming with a Spanish bio startup that developed a sustainable textile.

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