Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

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A seasoned rice dish is third up in our series on “oage-san,” a term of endearment used for “abura-age” (thin deep-fried tofu) found in Kyoto's kitchens.

The recipe’s fried tofu cut into triangles has been likened to gingko leaves, the carrot evokes autumn foliage, and the “shimeji” mushrooms complete the feel of a village in the fall.

Using the term “fukiyose” that captures the image of falling leaves and petals gathered by the autumn wind, the recipe was given the name “fukiyose gohan.”

All it takes to make it is to cut up familiar ingredients and cook them with rice, but the fried tofu makes a big contribution to its deliciousness.

“I consider oage-san to be a stand-in for bacon in ‘shojin-ryori’ (Buddhist vegetarian cooking),” says Setsuko Sugimoto, who oversaw the recipe's cooking aspect.

Indeed, fried tofu is the same as bacon in that both are food made up of protein, fat and water. They are both rich in savory “umami” flavor components, namely glutamic acid in the soybeans and inosinic acid in meat.

In the rice dish, fried tofu is both an ingredient and source of stock along with “kombu” kelp. The dish can also reflect the seasons when bamboo shoots in the spring and “myoga” in the summer are added.

The arranged version features “mixed inari,” a twist on “inari-zushi,” or fried tofu pouches filled with sushi rice. Though the sushi rice is not packed this time, it is equally tasty when enjoyed with roasted sesame seeds.

HOW YOU CUT TOFU MAKES A DIFFERENCE

The appearance of fried tofu in the dish and its taste both change depending on the way it is cut (see photo).

We cut our tofu into triangles for the “fukiyose” rice dish to make it stand out (photo, left). But if it is to be added to miso soup with “wakame,” the tofu is cut into strips (center) so you can eat it easily with chopsticks. Because of that, it is typically cut that way when the two ingredients are eaten together.

If you cut fried tofu into finer strips (right) and add it to seasoned rice, it will become a subdued presence with milder texture while serving as a source of umami. This shape is recommended when making bamboo shoot rice with a delicate flavor.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Setsuko Sugimoto in the cooking aspect and Midori Kasai in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serve four)

Approximately 360 ml rice, 395 ml water (1.1 times the amount of rice), 1 piece of dried kombu kelp (4 cm on a side), 1/2 (60 grams) thin deep-fried tofu (abura-age), 80 grams carrot, 1/3 (80 grams) pack shimeji mushroom, 1 Tbsp sake, 1 and 1/2 Tbsp light-colored soy sauce, 2/3 tsp salt

About 350 kcal and 2.3 grams salt per portion

1. Rinse rice and drain in sieve.

2. Sandwich fried tofu between kitchen paper, press lightly to remove excess oil on surface. Cut into triangles about 1.5 cm at the base and 2 cm high (PHOTO A).

3. Peel carrot, quarter lengthwise and cut finely into slices 2 mm thick. Remove hard end of shimeji and separate. Cut long ones into two (PHOTO B).

4. Add rice and water to rice cooker. Add sake, soy sauce and salt and mix from the bottom to dissolve salt. Flatten rice surface. By using light-colored soy sauce, rice will turn out subtly brown.

5. Place kelp on rice, followed by carrot, shimeji and fried tofu in this order. Spread them out on surface (PHOTO C). Cook as usual and when rice has been allowed to steam, remove kelp and mix content from bottom.

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Setsuko Sugimoto is a Kyoto-based cooking expert who explores the culinary culture of the ancient capital.

Midori Kasai is a professor at Ochanomizu University and former chairwoman of the Japan Society of Cookery Science.

ARRANGED VERSION

“Mixed inari-zushi”

Turn your leftover fukiyose rice into a treat the following day.

In the recipe for this version, the triangle-shaped fried tofu is supposed to resemble the ears of a fox, which, as the saying goes, loves thin fried tofu.

The ingredients include a quarter (250 grams) of the fukiyose rice, some roasted sesame and seasoned vinegar (1 Tbsp each of rice vinegar and sugar, 1/2 tsp salt).

Prepare the seasoned vinegar by dissolving the sugar and salt in the vinegar. Sprinkle it on warmed fukiyose rice and mix. When cooled, serve on plate and sprinkle sesame on top.

COOKERY SCIENCE

The ingredients for seasoned rice should be cooked while they are sitting on the rice. If they are mixed with rice, it interferes with the rice grains’ water absorption and convection of water in the rice cooker. This could cause rice to be cooked unevenly.

Rice is prone to turn out undercooked especially when minced meat is mixed into it. After the seasonings are mixed with rice and water, the ingredients should be scattered on top and then cooked right away.

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From The Asahi Shimbun’s Gohan Lab column