Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

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Ever been drawn to fresh fish on sale, yet ended up walking past because the bounty of offerings seemed too much to handle? The four-part series starting this week introduces recipes that allow readers to rediscover the fine taste of in-season fish by getting creative.

First we introduce “katsuo,” or skipjack tuna. While it is rich in umami, some people may be put off by its distinct bloody odor that emerges with time. Several techniques can be used to hide this, and there are three we like: sprinkle salt to let the smell component melt out, sear all sides on a grill and use generous helpings of aromatic vegetables and seasonings.

Despite having their own distinct flavors, green “shiso” leaves, “myoga” and "doubanjiang" combined strike a perfect balance to make skipjack stand out. The fine flavors spread throughout the ingredients when mixed by hand.

The dish is recommended for those who are not huge fans of onion and garlic that usually accompanies “katsuo no tataki,” or skipjack sashimi whose surface has been seared.

It is a favorite dish originating from a staff meal at the restaurant of Katsuhiko Yoshida who supervised the cooking aspect of the recipe.

STILL A REASONABLE PRICE

In spring, skipjack tuna ride the warm current in pursuit of food and head north in Japanese coastal waters of the Pacific. They are called “hatsu (first) gatsuo” or “nobori (upward) gatsuo.”

Toward summer, the waters off Joban to Tohoku along the northeastern region of Honshu become the main fishing grounds. The fish head south in fall to spawn. This is when they are called “modori (return) gatsuo.”

According to Sadaaki Kayama, 44-year-old president of a fishery company in Yokosuka, Kanagawa Prefecture, the volume of skipjack landings this spring was about half that of last year.

Yet, as demand from restaurants has fallen off due to the coronavirus pandemic, the price has remained about the same.

Skipjack tuna is rich in vitamin B and iron, and is said to help recovery from fatigue.

“The fact that fishermen on the skipjack boats can work with energy from early morning to sunset attests to this,” said Kayama.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Katsuhiko Yoshida in the cooking aspect and Midori Kasai in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serves two)

300 gram block of fresh skipjack tuna (katsuo) (amount includes some for rice with tea recipe), 2 pinches salt, 6 green shiso leaves, 1/4 green onion, 1 myoga, 1 tsp cooking oil, 2 tsp grated sesame seeds, 2 Tbsp soy sauce, 1 Tbsp sesame oil, 1/2 tsp doubanjiang (leave out if not into spiciness)

About 221 kcal and 2.9 grams salt per portion

1. Sprinkle salt on fish, spread out evenly with fingers and leave for a while. Finely chop green shiso, green onion and myoga (PHOTO A).

2. About 10 minutes after sprinkling salt, wrap fish in kitchen paper, press lightly to dry (PHOTO B).

3. Have enough ice water to cover fish in bowl ready. Pour oil in frying pan and place on high heat. When pan has warmed, lay fish to sear surfaces (PHOTO C).

4. Immerse fish in ice water, pull out after about 30 seconds, wrap in kitchen paper, press lightly to dry. Empty bowl and wipe dry. Cut fish into 7- to 8-mm thick slices. Place them in bowl, add chopped green shiso, green onion, myoga, grated sesame and mix by hand. Add soy sauce, sesame oil, doubanjiang and mix further.

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Katsuhiko Yoshida is the owner chef of Jeeten, a restaurant in Tokyo’s Yoyogi Uehara offering Chinese home cooking.

Midori Kasai is a professor at Ochanomizu University and chairwoman of the Japan Society of Cookery Science.

ARRANGED VERSION

Oolong tea poured on rice and skipjack tuna

Set aside 2 or 3 slices of skipjack for one serving and make “ochazuke,” a simple dish of pouring tea on rice, featuring oolong tea that goes well with doubanjiang. Roughly chop slices into three equal parts. Serve rice in large bowl, top with the fish, 1 tsp finely chopped zha cai and 1 Tbsp “tenkasu” (crunchy bits of deep-fried tempura batter). Pour warm oolong tea over them.

COOKERY SCIENCE

When the surface of the skipjack tuna is seared, it takes on a roasted flavor and the protein of the surface solidifies and loses water so it becomes easier for the seasonings to seep in.

The searing also enhances the juicy feel of the meat when it is chewed. Not only that, the foodie gets to enjoy a complex texture since the outer meat becomes firm while the inner part remains soft and raw.