Photo/Illutration Nozomu Kobayashi, managing director of FL 360, introduces the “farmers 360 degrees link” project at an event related to the Tokyo International Conference on African Development in Yokohama on Aug. 20. (Shiki Iwasawa)

YOKOHAMA—Nozomu Kobayashi, who heads a Mitsui & Co. affiliate, is preparing to launch a clothing brand aimed at supporting African cotton farmers by working in QR codes that allow shoppers to see how the materials that went into a piece of apparel were grown.

At an event related to the 9th Tokyo International Conference on African Development that opened in Yokohama on Aug. 20, Kobayashi pitched the “farmers 360 degrees link” project led by his company, FL 360 (Pty) Ltd.

T-shirts on display at Mitsui & Co.’s booth are made from cotton grown by small-scale farmers in Zambia and other African countries. Part of the proceeds goes toward supporting them.

The project integrates technology that provides transparency into cotton sourcing as a means to appeal to consumers.

By scanning the QR code on the T-shirt’s tag with a smartphone, shoppers can see where the cotton was produced, learn about the farmers involved and even understand the specific challenges each one faces.

They can choose from a menu of support options, such as subsidizing agricultural supplies purchases and installing solar-powered lights in schools. They can also later see updates on the local impact through photos and other media.

Kobayashi, a former Mitsui & Co. employee, was tasked with starting a new venture with an African agricultural company partly owned by the trading house.

He explored ways to balance commercial success with addressing social issues and considered projects such as rural electrification and forest conservation.

But Kobayashi found it difficult for a general trading company such as Mitsui & Co. to establish a profitable business model when working with African farmers, whose annual household incomes typically range from $1,000 to $2,000 (150,000 to 300,000 yen).

He consequently shifted his strategy to “generating revenue from the global market while supporting African farmers.”

With a growing number of consumers now motivated to buy products based on not only the merchandise but also their production processes, Kobayashi saw added value in incorporating traceability into the purchasing experience.

A pilot project began in 2021, and popular select shops such as Ron Herman under Little League Inc. and Beams Co. have stocked products made with this cotton, complete with QR codes. 

Some of these items were priced at more than 10,000 yen in a landscape where fast-fashion retailers often sell T-shirts for between 1,000 yen and 2,000 yen.

However, Kobayashi thought that reliance on third-party brands makes it difficult to create products that truly represent his company’s vision.

This conviction led to his decision to launch FL 360’s own clothing brand.

He plans to finalize the product lineup within the current fiscal year, which ends in March.

Looking ahead, Kobayashi is considering applying the traceability technology developed for the cotton to other agricultural products, such as cacao and coffee beans.

Since the system itself has already been built, its low implementation cost is a major advantage.

Kobayashi said it is essential to get the clothing business on track quickly to achieve this goal.

“Time is not unlimited,” he said. “We need to turn this into a profitable business as soon as we can.”

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