Photo/Illutration "Kumade," decorated lucky rakes, are sold during the Tori-no-Ichi festival held at Otorijinja shrine in Tokyo's Taito Ward on Nov. 4, 2022. (Asahi Shimbun file photo)

In the past, “kamisuki,” or the traditional craft of making paper by hand, was a thriving industry in the neighborhood of Asakusa, Tokyo.

While the finely chopped raw materials were soaking in cold water, the craftsmen would visit the nearby Yoshiwara red-light district. That said, they would only gaze at the courtesans from outside the establishments.

It is said that the word “hiyakashi” (to browse for fun, window-shopping) originated from “hiyakasu,” the practice of soaking paper materials in cold water.

Now, let’s move on to the temple and shrine right next to Yoshiwara. They were bustling with activity over the weekend due to “Tori no Ichi” (rooster market), a traditional annual festival held on the Day of the Rooster in November, where people pray for good fortune and prosperity in business.

My eyes were drawn to the rows of stalls, and I became one of the hiyakashi customers myself. After all, when I looked up, I saw a dazzling array of extravagant “kumade” (bamboo rakes decorated with lucky charms). There were images of smiling Otafuku (the goddess of good fortune) and dancing sea bream on the kumade.

Customers pondered, bargained and purchased, each seeking the kumade that would bring them the most luck.

The vendors, clad in “happi” festival coats, clapped their hands rhythmically to energize each buyer, shouting, “Shobai hanjo, sore, sore, masumasu hanjo” (Prosperity in business, more and more prosperity).

This created a truly stylish soundscape. Buyers left with high spirits. As Seiho Shimada (1882-1944) wrote in his haiku, “In the waves of people/ kumade float high.”

Sharing in the overflowing sense of happiness, my heart felt warm.

Due to the alignment of the calendar, there were three Tori no Ichi markets this year. It is said that years with a third Tori no Ichi have a higher incidence of fires. Although it may be unrelated, there has been a series of tragic fires recently.

After much deliberation over whether to buy a kumade, I ended up purchasing a fire prevention amulet. I pray that there will be no more tragedies.

In my neighborhood, it is a year-end tradition for children to parade around chanting, “Hi no yojin” (Beware of fire). The sound of the “hyoshigi” (wooden clappers) piercing the cold air gradually fades away.

That is another traditional soundscape that deserves to be preserved.

December starts today. From here on, each day will pass by with incredible speed.

—The Asahi Shimbun, Dec. 1

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Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.

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