Photo/Illutration Takako Akagi on May 10 in Fukuoka’s Hakata Ward (Photo by Soichiro Yamamoto)

FUKUOKA--As dusk settles over the city's Nakasu district here, motorcycles and other vehicles appear along the riverside hauling large wooden box-like objects.

Upon arrival in their designated spots, each timber box is unfolded and assembled. Vendors set up chairs around their stalls and start bringing in ingredients.

These are “yatai” food stands, iconic symbols of Fukuoka city.

A total of 100 stalls do business in the city’s Nakasu, Tenjin and Nagahama districts, serving up countless dishes from “tonkotsu” pork broth ramen to “oden” hot pot and more.

Yet as varied as their food options may be, a close look at the stalls themselves reveals that most have strikingly similar designs.

That’s because most of Fukuoka’s iconic food stalls were crafted by the same artisan: Takako Akagi, known as “Big Sister” by the locals.

Akagi, 83, has won the immense trust of stall operators, who have a saying: “You can’t go wrong if you ask Big Sister.”

SEE AND LEARN

Hailing from Amakusa, Kumamoto Prefecture, Akagi married Mitsunori, who came from the same hometown, when she was 26. They then moved to Fukuoka.

One day, after dropping their two children off at kindergarten, Akagi stopped at her husband’s joinery workshop.

Finding tools strewn about, she couldn’t feel at ease until she had cleaned up the mess.

Akagi’s father was a carpenter. His favorite saying was “see and learn.”

Akagi carefully watched Mitsunori make fittings, and gradually started helping him cut and shave lumber. In time, she committed herself to crafting traditional screens and doors.

In 1984, the couple began helping a local carpenter who was known as the “first yatai creator” in Fukuoka. The famed artisan did not have a successor.

However, Mitsunori then suffered a stroke and became paralyzed on the right side of his body.

“I had no choice but to do it myself,” recalled Akagi.

By dismantling old yatai stalls repeatedly and conducting research, Akagi developed a unique style of combining wood with stainless steel plates.

She has been making fine quality yatai for 40 years since then.

Even difficult requests from stubborn and demanding stall operators can be accommodated—her quality creations are made to order.

She said that the placement of refrigerators, washing areas and kitchens are adjusted as needed for each stall.

“I simply stick to craftsmanship,” Akagi said. “I just make exactly what is requested.”

Akagi spends two months finishing a single yatai. She has built 99 to date.

She prides herself on never receiving reports or complaints about her stalls breaking down or needing repairs, even though they are hauled around the city streets daily.

“Being flooded with repair requests would render my life easier financially, though,” she said, grinning.

In February last year, Mitsunori passed away.

Akagi’s own legs and lower back are weakening, but she has no intention of ending her work. 

For Akagi, the sense of loneliness and satisfaction she feels as she delivers her stalls to clients is irreplaceable. It is akin to sending off her own children.

“I have just procured the best wood ever from Japanese cypress,” said Akagi.

She looks forward to seeing her 100th stall added to the line of yatai in Fukuoka at night in the not-so-distant future.

Related News