Photo/Illutration Shiraae (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

Editor’s note: In the Taste of Life series, cooking experts, chefs and others involved in the field of food introduce their special recipes intertwined with their paths in life.

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There are chance encounters in any person’s life.

When Yoko Arimoto was working part time at an industrial design office while studying at a university, she was enthralled by a book in the office library to which she had free access.

It was written by Kaichi Tsuji (1907-1988), the second-generation proprietor of Tsujidome, a “chakaiseki-ryori” (traditional Japanese multi-course meal) restaurant in Kyoto.

Solid techniques and neat dishes were presented through fine writing and photos.

“The dishes are made to suit the person eating and to express hospitality,” says Arimoto, a cooking expert. “This spirit has deeply affected my home cooking.”

Do not skip the necessary steps even when making daily meals, and think of the person who will be served while cooking.

Arimoto feels that this spirit can be shown clearly through this week’s “shiraae,” vegetables dressed in tofu sauce.

Although shiraae is served year-round, Arimoto freely gives twists to the ingredients. She may capture the feel of the season by using in-season ingredients, or she may make one that suits the physical condition or preference of the person being served.

Although the weather remains cold, we can sense the arrival of spring in the sunlight. Field mustard is used to express the longing for spring, but briefly boiled snap peas or snow peas may be used instead.

The sauce is ground until smooth in a large mortar by adding sake, sweet mirin sake and soy sauce little by little. Check the taste and add salt to give the flavor an edge.

The listed amounts of ingredients are approximate. Mix the amount of tofu dressing you prefer with the ingredients. Leftover sauce may be used to dress briefly boiled green vegetables such as komatsuna.

The cooked vegetables can also be used to make mixed sushi or “takikomi-gohan,” rice cooked with various ingredients.

“Anyone can make tasty dishes if one goes to the trouble that needs to be taken,” says Arimoto. “Feel composed and cook while thinking about the person who will be eating the dish.”

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Yoko Arimoto: The dishes Arimoto made for her family drew attention and paved the way for a career in cooking. She has written many books including “Reshipi wo Minaide Tsukureru yoni Narimasho” (Teach yourself how to cook without having to check the recipe).

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Yoko Arimoto (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

BASIC COOKING METHOD

Main Ingredients (Serves 4 to 5)

1/2 burdock root (gobo), 1 carrot, 1 segment lotus root, 1 block konjac, 1 bunch field mustard (nanohana), 500 ml dashi stock (made from dried kombu kelp and dried skipjack shavings), Seasoning A (1/2 cup sake, 1/3 cup sweet mirin sake, 2 to 3 Tbsp soy sauce), 1/2 block tofu (hard “momen” type), 1/2 cup toasted white sesame seeds (iri-shirogoma), Seasoning B (2 Tbsp each of sweet mirin sake and sake heated to boil down alcohol content, 1 tsp soy sauce, some salt)

1. Wrap tofu in thin cotton cloth, top with weight to push water out sufficiently.

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Push out water from tofu. (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

2. Cut burdock and lotus root into rectangular columns 4 cm in length. Immerse in water, then boil in hot water (not listed above) with vinegar added. Parboil konjac and field mustard and cut into same size as burdock. Peel carrot and cut into same size.

3. Add burdock, lotus root, carrot, konjac and dashi stock in pot, add Seasoning A and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes on low heat.

4. Grind toasted white sesame seeds in large mortar until smooth and not grainy. Tear drained tofu into small pieces and add. Grind with sesame seeds. Add Seasoning B little by little while mixing. Sugar may also be added. If sauce is firm, adjust by adding bit of water used to simmer vegetables. Add 3 and field mustard to sauce and mix lightly.

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Make dressing sauce in mortar. (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

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From The Asahi Shimbun’s Jinsei Reshipi (Life Recipe) column

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