Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

* * *

The joy of deep-frying ingredients yourself is that you get to eat them freshly fried.

We've selected a mouthwatering lineup for our four-part series starting this week, the goal of which is to get you used to deep-frying.

Along the way, we'll be focusing on easy-to-use tools as well as how to take care of the used oil.

First up are deep-fried chicken wings, guaranteed to ignite your appetite.

Two things that can't be compromised on are the golden crispy coating and how it harmonizes with the succulent meat. The key is using the right temperature and amount of oil.

A generous amount of oil in a big pot will boost your success rate. But if you wish to use a smaller pot, a deep one with a small diameter that will give depth that allows the ingredients to be immersed in oil works better than a shallow frying pan.

Even if a small amount of oil is used, you can achieve the appropriate amount and temperature by adjusting the number of chicken wings that go in the pot at the same time. Deep pots are also safer since they prevent oil from splashing.

If you measure your frying time with a timer, it will give you breathing room to observe the changes in the sound and bubbles.

Once the ideal fried color and crisp texture are achieved through the extra step of frying twice, serve with seasoned or ketchup-based sauce.

CHEMISTRY BETWEEN OIL AND COOKING

The cooking science aspect of our latest series was handled by Hiroshi Hirai, 51, who works on the product development of cooking oil at the central research institute of Nisshin OilliO Group, a major cooking oil manufacturer.

According to Hirai, the compatibility between cooking and the oil used is profound.

“My personal recommendation is ‘tonkatsu’ (deep-fried pork cutlet) fried in rice oil," Hirai said. "A roasted aroma rises and this brings out the fried flavor.”

Hirai said consumers’ health awareness of oil is shifting from “avoiding it because it's fattening” to “taking in as much good oil as necessary.”

An increasing number of shops selling prepared food are displaying the kinds of oil they use. Hirai hopes that the information will provide hints when cooking at home.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Katsuhiko Yoshida in the cooking aspect and Hiroshi Hirai in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serves two)

4 chicken wings ("tebasaki"), 1 Tbsp sake, 1 Tbsp soy sauce, bit of pepper, 1 egg, 5 and 1/2 Tbsp "katakuriko" starch, frying oil

For seasoned sauce: 5 cm green onion ("naganegi"), 1 stem parsley with leaves, 1/4 lemon, 2 Tbsp each of vinegar and soy sauce, 1 Tbsp each of sugar, water, sesame oil

About 330 kcal and 2.3 grams salt per portion

1. To make seasoned sauce, finely chop green onion, parsley and unpeeled lemon. Thoroughly mix sugar, vinegar, soy sauce and water in bowl (PHOTO A) and add vegetables and sesame oil.

2. Place chicken wings in bowl, add sake, soy sauce, pepper and egg and mix well. Add katakuriko starch and mix. (PHOTO B).

3. Heat oil to 160 degrees. Let a drop of batter fall into the oil. The time is right to add the chicken wings when the batter sinks to the bottom and then floats up.

We used a Beijing pan (an iron pan with flat bottom and curved sides) 20 cm in diameter. Two chicken wings can go in the pan at the same time if 300 ml of oil is used, 3 if 400 ml of oil is used (PHOTO C). When large bubbles form at first and then subside, lower heat a little and set the timer for 6 minutes.

4. If parts of chicken wings stick out from the oil, move them occasionally with chopsticks or tongs to heat evenly. Remove chicken after 6 minutes. When all chicken wings are fried, raise heat to 180 degrees and return chicken wings 1 or 2 at a time and fry for 1 to 2 minutes.

When the popping sound subsides and the bubbles become smaller, remove on a wire rack. Serve on a plate and pour seasoned sauce on top.

***

Katsuhiko Yoshida is the owner chef of Jeeten, a restaurant in Tokyo’s Yoyogi Uehara offering Chinese home cooking.

Hiroshi Hirai is a researcher at the central research institute of Nisshin OilliO Group, a major cooking oil manufacturer.

ARRANGED VERSION

Ketchup-based sauce

Mix 2 Tbsp ketchup, 1 Tbsp sugar, 1/2 Tbsp vinegar, 1/2 Tbsp nam pla and 1 tsp chili oil and serve with the deep-fried chicken wings in place of the seasoned sauce. The ketchup and nam pla create a Southeast Asian flavor.

COOKERY SCIENCE

Oils, such as sesame oil and olive oil, have characteristics derived from what they are made of. They add flavor to fried food. For example, corn oil gives food a roasted taste and cottonseed oil adds a savory umami flavor.

Oils that are less prone to undergo oxidation, a process hastened through heating, can be used longer and offer a crispy finish even after being used multiple times.

* * *

From The Asahi Shimbun’s Gohan Lab column