Editor’s note: The theme of Gohan Lab is to help people make simple, tasty “gohan” (meals).

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Spring vegetables are now in season, having arrived early this year due to the warm winter.

We are kicking off the second year of Gohan Lab with a series on in-season vegetables, beginning with the bamboo shoot.

Although many other ingredients have become available throughout the year, there is a limited time frame to make takenoko gohan, or bamboo shoot rice, with fresh bamboo shoot--the key to bringing out the full flavor of the dish.

At restaurants, the bamboo shoot is often cooked with usukuchi shoyu (light-colored soy sauce) for an elegant effect, but in this recipe, koikuchi shoyu (dark-colored, regular soy sauce) and salt will season and color the ingredients.

The plain, deep-fried tofu will deepen the umami flavor of the dish, while the texture of the bamboo shoot and the stock will blend together perfectly.

Now, you could just buy a pre-boiled bamboo shoot. But if a fresh, whole shoot comes your way, the flavor turns out far better if you boil it with the skin still intact.

Though it may take time, the process is not troublesome. It is an exciting experience to peel the cooked bamboo skin that has become tender and produces a rich aroma.

The smells and flavors of spring brought out in this dish will lift your spirits and help you through the day.

GOHAN LAB TO LIST CALORIES, SALT CONTENT

Since Gohan Lab began running in April last year, many readers have requested that we list the nutritional value of the dishes. Starting this week, we will show the calorie count and salt content of the featured recipe.

The calculation is carried out by national registered dietitians from the Kagawa Nutrition University's Nutrition Clinic in Tokyo's Toshima Ward. The institute offers courses on dietary life for the public, conducts tests for lifestyle-related diseases and offers consultations on nutrition.

The dietitians work with doctors, physical educators and cooking experts to give advice and support.

Gohan Lab plans to offer additional insights into planning meals and tips on balancing nutrition in your daily diet.

BASIC COOKING METHOD

(Supervised by Akiko Watanabe in the cooking aspect and Midori Kasai in the cookery science aspect)

* Ingredients (Serves four)

2 go of rice (1 go is about 180 cc), 120 grams boiled bamboo shoot (1 small bamboo shoot and a handful of rice bran, if boiling at home), 1 thin deep-fried tofu (aburaage), 200 ml dashi stock, 1 Tbsp soy sauce, 1/4 tsp salt, 1 Tbsp sake

About 305 kcal and 1.1 grams salt per portion

1. When boiling a fresh bamboo shoot, cut off the tip at an angle. For now, leave skin intact. Make a shallow incision lengthwise. Put bamboo shoot into a pot of enough water so it is covered, add rice bran (PHOTO A) and place on medium heat. Cover with a drop lid or plate so the bamboo shoot will not float. Bring water to a boil, reduce to low heat and boil for 1 to 2 hours. Once a bamboo skewer can be smoothly pushed into the root part, turn off stove and cool in pot.

2. Rinse rice and drain on sieve. Place rice and 200 ml of water in rice cooker and leave for 30 minutes.

3. Peel cooled bamboo shoot and rinse. Cut off 4 cm from tip. Cut this in half lengthwise and slice. Cut the lower part lengthwise into four pieces and finely slice into quadrants (PHOTO B). Cut fried tofu in half lengthwise, then cut into 5-mm-wide pieces.

4. Add stock and seasonings to rice cooker and mix (PHOTO C). Spread fried tofu and bamboo shoot over entire surface. Since the rice has already absorbed the water, cook in “quick-cooking” mode. When done, loosen content by scooping from bottom with rice paddle.

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Akiko Watanabe is a cooking expert specializing in Japanese cuisine.
Midori Kasai is a professor at Ochanomizu University and chairwoman of the Japan Society of Cookery Science.

ARRANGED VERSION

Simmered bamboo shoot with sweet-salty flavor

Heavily season the surface and enjoy the aroma of the bamboo shoot in this simmered dish. Cut off the tip of 200 grams of boiled bamboo shoot and cut in four lengthwise. Slice the rest into semicircles that are 1 cm wide. Heat 2 tsp oil in a pot and stir-fry the bamboo shoot over medium heat. Once oil has gone around, add 150 ml dashi stock and 1 Tbsp sugar, place a drop lid and simmer over medium heat for five minutes. Add 1 Tbsp soy sauce and heat until liquid is gone.

COOKERY SCIENCE

The reason rice bran (or alternatively opaque water in which rice has been washed) is added when boiling the bamboo shoot is that the starch in the bran or water adsorbs the bamboo’s astringent component. Leaving the bamboo shoot for a while in the pot after boiling increases the amount of absorption, removing its harshness.